I watched the sunrise off Topanga this morning.
The air was crisp and cold with a light breeze but I know, nothing like what the rest of the country is going through (just remember California is earthquake country), there’s always a tradeoff.
I stood above the beach on a small bluff, feeling utterly grateful. The soft glow of orange gently became a pale yellow in the sky, the rays not strong enough to make my eyes squint, the reflection off the water slowly turned a teal green, then pink, then lavender. Further north the water remained a dark silky blue, the waves lapped quietly and it looked so inviting.
There were only 15 surfers in the water shivering but there were waves. Perfect waves for an elegant longboarder or expert short, they sat and waited quietly, some huddled together chatting, others off on their own. Every once in a while one would look back towards the beach and see me but I knew it wasn’t me they were looking at, they were just worried that more were going to join the lineup.
A few pelicans brush low over the water, not a “sweeper” (SUP) in sight.
California is an amazing place. In 2 hours I could be in Joshua Tree watching the same colors transform the desert to watch the sun set.
A shortboarder rides a beautiful small wave all the way in and I can hear him holler out in that way that will always remind me of my youth; “Ahhwoooo!”
One day I will learn to surf or just sit on a board on the water or maybe I will remain content with watching old men become young again, abusive men dance like angels…all being transformed by the water.
The sun is up, my friend brings me coffee to warm my hands, and again I am grateful.
As the latecomer’s begin arriving, I proudly pull onto PCH with my Lance Carson sticker declaring my allegiance, and start my day.
(Somehow Charlie Don’t Surf seems an appropriate tune, even for today…just a different time, same unrest.)
- 5 Best Surfing Movies (mademan.com)
- Ice breakers: surfing’s cold water pioneers (telegraph.co.uk)
- Illegal Craft Saves Surfer’s Life, Renewing the Attack on a Ban (nytimes.com)
- Surfers’ firm grabbing for control of Mavericks (sfgate.com)
- 10 Standup Paddle Surfing Tips (mademan.com)
- 10 Safe Surfing Tips (mademan.com)